Monday, 25 October 2010

CHINA BEACH Hoa's Place ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~July 26


~ China Beach ~

The main places worth visiting around Da Nang are beaches, from Red Beach (Nam O) in the north where the first US Marines came ashore, down the broad, bleached-white fringe of China Beach (My Khe), and continuing all the way south through Non Nuoc to Hoi An." [Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:323]

China Beach. "Of all the beaches in Vietnam, these are the most coveted by international developers, though only one resort has been completed so far along this empty, attractive coastline. A note of warning, however, there's a powerful undertow off this coast and when the northeast winter monsoon blows up, riptides become particularly dangerous. Guards patrol the main swimming beaches during the day, where flags also indicate sage spots. Best months on the beach are April to August, with the peak season for local holidaymakers in July and August."[Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:323]


Heading down the coast, past old US installations occupied these days by the People's Army, you come to a group of abrupt hills constituting the coast's other main tourist attraction, usually a stop on the trip to or from Hoi An: The Marble Mountains. The five limestone and marble knobbles are peppered with sacred caves, wrapped in legend – and liberally sprinkled with souvenir stands. For generations Non Nuoc Village at the mountains' base has resonated with the chink of stone masons chiselling away at religious statues, memorials and imitation Chan figures...” [Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:323]

July 26. A Monday. Well, you get dropped off from the sleeping-bus from Hanoi mid-morning in a heavy downpour. Water actually floods the cargo hold of the bus on the way past Nam O and in the flooded DaNang city streets. Out at the Marble Mountains off the bus your backpack is heavy with water. Some it's contents may be damaged. So you worry about your DVDs and books as you head down to the beach. New China Beach. You walk east from Non Nuoc Village for about 500m and you reach Non Nuoc Beach, promoted locally as new China Beach. “Huge, empty and consisting of clean, fine white sand, it's far enough from Da Nang to leave you unpestered”. [RG:326]

You stayed in DaNang town during your stopover on the way up to HaNoi. You visited this part of the beach. Now it's kinda familiar...even in the rain. Earlier, you had walked down the alley past Hoa's place. Your impression was kinda like The Rough Guide says... “Those looking for something... modest should...find a warm welcome at Hoa's Place... a delightfully laidback guesthouse offering... clean, good value rooms. Over the past ten years, it has built up a cult reputation with backpackers and surfers, some guests staying for months.” [Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:326]

So bingo.You're out of HaNoi. Out of that stupid sleeping-bus too. You've got a basic cheap room in the suitable 'for every nomad' Hoa's Place. It's virtually adjacent the beach. A short walk too to the amazing marble carving village of Non Nuoc. It's relatively quiet at Hoa's. The [s]low season. There are some other tourists who prefer this as a change to Hoi An. For me it's the best place to stay in the DaNang area that's for sure.