QUY NHON To NGA TRANG ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~Aug.02~03 2010

~ a coastal journey the morning after night falls on 'ween yearn' ~

Aug. 02. In the evening. Off to the big, flash Saigon~Quy Nhon hotel. It's slap-damn on the centre of the esplanade. How many stars? It's upmarket and where normal people stay on vacations. There's a swimming pool visitors can use...not now this evening. But a good place for an English dorm mate girl to sun herself tomorrow morning! Or so she thinks. Rather that than on a beautiful but troublesome, sandy beach! At the moment this hotel seems to also be the centre of activities of an 'International Traditional Vietnamese Martial Arts' Festival.

Anyway, we walk into the lobby. Can't find the swimming pool. No staff approach to ask us who we are. Or what we want. So we hop the elevator up to the rooftop. A bar, a restaurant and conference rooms. Nice. Nice view over the city. I'm feeling uneasy in such unnaturally plush surroundings. Looking around the city in various directions relaxes. On the way out through the lobby it turns out the swimming pool's closed to visitors. Outside again and I'm feeling much more at home. On the esplanade locals are enjoying yet another quiet social occasion. We wander off to find somewhere to eat along the esplanade in the general direction of the dorm at the Kiwi's cafe.

~ Along the coastal highway to Nga Trang ~

Aug. 03. I'm not sure why I only stayed the 3 nights. Quy Nhon is a very relaxing place. I decide to move on. And not to go up to the central highlands at this time of year. It's bound to have wetter and definitely colder weather in August. The central highlands will have to wait. I'm sure they will. I move on south in the general direction of Vung Tau instead. Vung Tau...the seaside resort near Saigon that I've mysteriously never yet visited. It's a long bus ride south on the busy largely single lane main north-south highway. I stop over in Nga Trang [again].

I'd called in at the bus station in the afternoon yesterday. Umm'd and aah'd about where to go. What bus to catch. So this morning I know roughly the times of direct buses to Vung Tau. Also to Nga Trang if I decide to break the journey in about half way. I catch the a MaiLinh minibus to Nga Trang because it's leaving as I complete the footslog along the esplanade for a final time. I don't know it's route. I'd heard about the recently opened coastal highway south. I'm pleasantly surprised. We head out of the station and up the rise. We're taking the highway I'd seen yesterday around the coast.

There's a mandatory mid-morning stop for coffee and nicotine. In Vietnam, MaiLinh minibuses are very middle class. They're an excellent alternative to tourist coaches. They're by no means the cheapest local transport option. But neither are they expensive. They're definitely for those of us who want a comfortable means of local transport. And for the aspiring middle class Vietnamese who will soon prefer [and really afford] to fly. We pass high above the shore then through 'settlements' or villages which are 'basic' but 'well kept'. These days there's reticulated electricity...and doubtless it's attendant blackouts!

I arrive safely in Nga Trang. It's been an enjoyable and interesting trip. And I'm a hell of a lot more rested than I'd ever have been on a more expensive 'sleeping bus'!

QUY NHON Fishing Port ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~Aug.01~02 2010

~ fishing's in the blood of this town ~

Aug. 01. Out from Barbara's Place bunk-room. Turn left and follow your nose. You can't miss it. Round past the 'heads' with it's commercial non-accessible wharfs. You come to the odd lane leading to the fishing port and fish market.

It's an overcast day. Nevertheless there's color around in the forms that float at ease in the harbor. Work horses of the local fisherpeople. Some made right here in Quy Nhon at the boat building yard that's near along from the fish market. Amazing. Refuel and sleep! There's more to this town than some would have you believe!

It's a hot day nevertheless. You stop in at the boat building yard. The guys there don't speak much of your language. But they're friendly enough. There's a cafe. Cool drink. Sit and observe. These boats are art. Practical. Blessed and the painted colorfully they hunt fish for the nearby fish market.

Further along Tran Hung Dao past the intersection with Dinh Bo Linh where the yard is you take another alley. The locals kids and their parents are obviously surprised to see a stranger. You clamber onto some moored boats to get a better view of the harbor. A couple of inquisitive children in the alley. One hangs back reticently. The other comes running full pelt at me. No 'hallo'. He's just interested to see what's going on. What I'm up to. For a moment I forgot too.

You double back. You want to check out the fish market you passed earlier. You see faces with flabbergasted expressions. This is not a tourist market. It's intriguing and delightfully simple. Workmanlike. The local people seem unconcerned and go about their normal business unaffected by my presence.

The market opens out to the wharf with it's steps down to the brine. As in many place gasoline is transported and sold from plastic containers. Or maybe it's diesel for the fishing boats. It's been a fascinating afternoon. Refuel and sleep. OK. But you don't know what your missing. Quy Nhon is changing fast. Like these sort of towns everywhere. By the time I get back for that necessary second visit, it might be a bit late. So, I'll not leave it too long!

QUY NHON Boat Building ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~Aug.01 2010

~ slipping into the future in Quy Nhon ~

...where craftsmen boat-builders still make wooden fishing boats. As the speed of Vietnam's economic development accelerates on the cusp of yet another decade, one shouldn't be too surprised to find that there's evidence of the new future even here...tall, modern buildings and hotels, new coastal roads and esplanades. Times they are a changing.

But also here in Quy Nhon in 2010 there's a nautical tradition that's keeping pace...changing and adapting. Skilled craftsmen not only repair wooden fishing boats. They still know how to build them using time-honored methods but with modern hand tools that save 'time and effort'.

For sure, time keeps slipping into the future. Boats have been slipping into the water for a long time too. After months of attention, as these artifacts, these crafted trees, these new wooden fishing boats eventually meet the brine...one can't help but reflect that they are the product of a considerable amount of knowledge acquired over past time. Time now...rushing down the yard's slipway into the future. As such perhaps, the wooden fishing boats of Quy Nhon are a metaphor of Vietnam's current modernization.

The boat-building yard in Qui Nhon isn't difficult to find. It's on Tran Hung Dao near the intersection with Dinh Bo Linh. Inside the yard you'll find a coffee shop. A place to sit and observe and reflect on the scene. Talk to the boat-builders too.

Quy Nhon of course has a wide range of accommodation and is presently, pleasantly uncluttered by other sightseers...

QUY NHON ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~Aug.01 2010

~ a place to refuel and more ~

'With a new place the buzz usually lasts a good 3 or 4 days. You haven't been to QuiNhon before'. You stay at the 'centrally located', 'cheap and cheerful' Barbara's Place. It's change position only slightly. Still wonderfully right on the beach but a bit further along than it was. You stay there for only 3 nites! You explore the town. You half think to yourself that this would be a nice place to stop and work. One day. Some day. But not now. Not yet.

The history of QuiNhon. “Qui Nhon's origins lie in the Cham migration south, at the start of the eleventh century, under pressure from the Vietnamese to the north. They named the empire they established in the area Vijaya (“Victory”); it's epicentre was the citadel of Cha Ban...and Qui Nhon – then known as Sri Bonai – developed into its thriving commercial centre. Centuries later, the Tay Son Rebellion boiled over in this neck of the woods. During the American War the city served as a US port and supply centre, and was engorged by refugees from the vicious bombing meted out to the surrounding countryside. Yet for all its historical resonance, there's nothing here to set pulses racing and, unless you've developed and inordinate interest in Cham towers, you'll only be here to refuel and sleep” [Attribution: The Rough Guide: Vietnam 2006 pp284-6]. Only to what! Good. Encourage them to move on quickly. To Nga Trang. Or Hoi An. The sooner the better! But, if like me, you just like a good, clean beach, friendly townsfolk, fresh and inexpensive seafood, and a great relaxed atmosphere with few tourists and the associated hype...stick around and enjoy.

On the town's beach. “The strand of beach in front of the Qui Nhon Hotel is the most popular in town; fairlywide, and passable clean, it still doesn't see many tourists, so you can expect your presence to draw a crowd...With the opening of the road south along the coast, previously inaccessible beaches will likely be opened up for tourism – keep track of the latest situation at Barbara's Backpackers”. [Attribution: The Rough Guide: Vietnam 2006:287].

July 31. A Saturday. You already knew that Barbara's a Kiwi. But what you didn't already know is that she's like you, an ex-New Zealand Volunteer Service Abroad volunteer. So we're amiably chatting about VSA people. People you haven't given a second thought to in a long time. Even though you shared a long time and a lot of memorable experiences with them...in Papua New Guinea that is. Where the wanderlust kicked in and took over your life. You weren't aware that there's a VSA office in town. Not that you got round to paying a visit! Barbara's OK. A laid back business woman these days. She's been living in Qui Nhon for something like 16 years now. And after wandering around for a few days you can appreciate why. Very nice place QuiNhon!

DANANG to QUY NHON ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~July 31, 2010

~ Qui or Quy...who cares ~

July 31. A Saturday. You're like feeling totally rejuvenated now. You've got itchy feet although you're soul isn't so perturbed. You know you're not a big city boy. Hanoi was just too much for you to take. 'Strange days indeed...most peculiar mama'. So it's continue the free-fall down to QuyNhon. Walking over to the bus station after checking out somewhat suddenly from the BangSau Hotel you're still smarting from the loss of the Cham Museum shots.

You haven't pre-booked a ticket or anything civilized like that. You didn't know you were going until this morning! You just mosey on over as best you can with 25kg extra. There's a MaiLinh coach south. To Quy or is it Qui Nhon. Down past towns full of Champa archeological sites. Their former heartland. It's a pleasant enough ride too. You try to snap the passing countryside and towns through the bus window. At the lunch break, while the others are eating...you go for a short wander in the heat of the day.

You arrive in QuyNhon in the mid-afternoon. You head for Barbara's Place. You'd talked to some travelers at Hoa's Place, China Beach. You knew you'd end up there. At the time though, when the bus pulls in to the QuiNhon bus station you think you'll just check out some other possibilities along the way. You hire a Xe Om to take you 'to a cheap hotel near the beach, OK'. The asking price is VND20k. A dollar. You pay fifteen. What the hell. Big spender! The hotel he takes you to isn't even a VND5k ride on a motorbike. It's on the beach front at the south-west end of the bay. It's way over my budget. There just happens to be an 'International' traditional martial arts tournament on at the moment, too. Most places are fully booked. Anyway you've blown your 'tranport budget' for the day and do a healthy hour's walk from virtually one end of the bay to the other. It's still hot. The pack gets kind of heavy on your [57 year] old shoulders too. But it's exactly the way you like to get to know a new town. And this one is pleasing to behold!

Tired and thirsty you finally make it in to Barbara's Place with her Kiwi Restaurant. No surprise. No rooms. But there's a bed in the dorm with my name on it. Great. How much? Fifty. Thousand that is. US$2.50. Done! There's everything you need here. It's right on the esplanade overlooking the attractive bay too. She's got a good cook at the Kiwi restaurant. It's not really as cheap as the street food you're used to. Nevertheless. You feel pleased with the day. Tired but happy. After resting up you then head out to find some eats.

CHINA BEACH and DANANG ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~July 2010

~ deleted! ~

The first day on China Beach the weather was overcast. You were lucky the day you went over to Non Nuoc the stone carving village. The fine weather persists. A beautiful one again as you have a day of combing the beach. You don't mind the odd overcast one followed by these! 'New' China Beach as the locals are terming it is the beach out front of Hoa's Place. You're a bit shocked to come across the old broken glass on the beautiful beach trick. From those late night beach parties? You should add that this occurs on only a small area of the beach you traversed. As I've said elsewhere, I don't go looking for such troubling shots.

Seems like you need a change. You decide to move up to the Benh Xe Khach area. That's near Danang's intercity bus station a few kilometres on the road north. You stayed at the SauBang Hotel in May. It's good value. You check in there again. They give you the same room for the same price. VND100k per night. It's virtually new. The rooms are very good. There's a reasonable local food joint nearby.

You manage to get motivated. You've been in Danang twice before but haven't been there yet. The Cham Museum. You ride the HoiAn-bound bus from the station...for VND 10k. It's on the river at the south end of the esplanade.These older yellow buses pass it before they head completely south out of town. You pay the VND 30k entry fee. This allows you take all the photos you want too.

It's a fascinating experience. The displays are somewhat static. They're pretty well documented though. It's a museum after all. But there's something unlucky about the day. Something fishy going on. Later back at the room that is. That's how you think of it later. This has happened to many a photographer, I'm sure. But you've not made this kind of blue before. The good ones that got away. They're always the best. The fact is that you let 'em go by mistake. The Cham Museum photos. Before backing them up you accidentally delete all but one shot. Funny, it's your favorite. You now refer to her as your one and only 'Champa girl'...

NON NUOC ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~July 26-27, 2010

~ nomad with a vision of marble ~

Back in March he wrote: “There's a definite buzz that I get when I arrive at a place...even just returning to one after 4 days. With a new place that buzz usually lasts a good 3 or 4 days. I rarely smoke these days and don't drink so gotta get a buzz from somewhere, I guess!”. Well, that feeling's back.

The Monday arriving at China Beach he's pretty bushed and the weather isn't up to much but he wanders along the beach to suck in the feeling of freedom. Never mind the weather. This is so different from Hanoi that it warms his wandering soul. He's not so sure about the slight guilt feelings. They're culturally instilled he knows and so unavoidable. He's sure he's done the right thing by quitting the job and heading south...again. But right now on the beach he's happy again. The waterline fascinates him...the boundary between earth and water. Ankle deep in brine he saunters.

Later, back at the room the soaked clothes and other personal effects have dried out and there's no real damage done by those DaNang flood waters. The room's pretty basic of course for $6. A room with it's own bathroom...no TV, no AC, no fridge. Just a couple a single beds and one of those big overhead fans that he likes.Their noisiness doesn't disturb anymore. This room's a bit dark and dingy for a longterm stay. But there's really not a lot of time spent in it over the next few days. And after the constraints of Hanoi...

The Tuesday morning he's up and out early in the clear, sunny morning. But not down to the beach again. Rather, along to the carving village, Non Nuoc on an exceptional morning. He knows that this place has a stone-carving tradition pre-dating Vietnamese sovereignty over this part of the coast about 400 years ago. That carving tradition goes back [at least] to the Champa who were of Hindu religious belief. Heavily into stone carving, just as their western/southern neighbors the Khmers [Angkor Wat etc.] were at the same time. Along what is now the coast of The Socialist Republic of Vietnam there was the Khmer Mekong Delta south, the Champa central coast [of Annan] and the recently independent from China Vietnamese Tonkin based north around Thang Long/Hanoi.

“Since the fifteenth century, Non Nuoc has been inhabited by stone-carvers, who coax life out of the local white, grey and rose marble. Nowadays workshops generally churn out mass-produced souvenirs using marble imported from Thanh Hoa Province, but it's fascinating to watch the masons at work – just follow your ears” [Atttribution: The Rough Guide 2006:326].

Some of the motifs are kitschy tourist interpretations of traditional Cham designs. What to the casual observer appear to be almost traditional Chinese motifs. As well as at archeological Cham citadel sites in Annan, in DaNang city, at the Cham Museum, you can find authentic Cham stone carvings. They're largely out of context and most have some damage. But they the real thing nonetheless.

CHINA BEACH Hoa's Place ~journeys 2010: journal with pfotos~July 26

~ China Beach ~

“The main places worth visiting around Da Nang are beaches, from Red Beach (Nam O) in the north where the first US Marines came ashore, down the broad, bleached-white fringe of China Beach (My Khe), and continuing all the way south through Non Nuoc to Hoi An." [Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:323]

China Beach. "Of all the beaches in Vietnam, these are the most coveted by international developers, though only one resort has been completed so far along this empty, attractive coastline. A note of warning, however, there's a powerful undertow off this coast and when the northeast winter monsoon blows up, riptides become particularly dangerous. Guards patrol the main swimming beaches during the day, where flags also indicate sage spots. Best months on the beach are April to August, with the peak season for local holidaymakers in July and August."[Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:323]

“Heading down the coast, past old US installations occupied these days by the People's Army, you come to a group of abrupt hills constituting the coast's other main tourist attraction, usually a stop on the trip to or from Hoi An: The Marble Mountains. The five limestone and marble knobbles are peppered with sacred caves, wrapped in legend – and liberally sprinkled with souvenir stands. For generations Non Nuoc Village at the mountains' base has resonated with the chink of stone masons chiselling away at religious statues, memorials and imitation Chan figures...” [Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:323]

July 26. A Monday. Well, you get dropped off from the sleeping-bus from Hanoi mid-morning in a heavy downpour. Water actually floods the cargo hold of the bus on the way past Nam O and in the flooded DaNang city streets. Out at the Marble Mountains off the bus your backpack is heavy with water. Some it's contents may be damaged. So you worry about your DVDs and books as you head down to the beach. New China Beach. You walk east from Non Nuoc Village for about 500m and you reach Non Nuoc Beach, promoted locally as new China Beach. “Huge, empty and consisting of clean, fine white sand, it's far enough from Da Nang to leave you unpestered”. [RG:326]

You stayed in DaNang town during your stopover on the way up to HaNoi. You visited this part of the beach. Now it's kinda familiar...even in the rain. Earlier, you had walked down the alley past Hoa's place. Your impression was kinda like The Rough Guide says... “Those looking for something... modest should...find a warm welcome at Hoa's Place... a delightfully laidback guesthouse offering... clean, good value rooms. Over the past ten years, it has built up a cult reputation with backpackers and surfers, some guests staying for months.” [Attribution: The Rough Guide 2006:326]

So bingo.You're out of HaNoi. Out of that stupid sleeping-bus too. You've got a basic cheap room in the suitable 'for every nomad' Hoa's Place. It's virtually adjacent the beach. A short walk too to the amazing marble carving village of Non Nuoc. It's relatively quiet at Hoa's. The [s]low season. There are some other tourists who prefer this as a change to Hoi An. For me it's the best place to stay in the DaNang area that's for sure.